PREP 101: An Introduction to the Classic American Style
Navy blazers, polo shirts, and khaki trousers… The preppy closet is an homage to the classic, casual, and clean. Though the school style is enjoying another renaissance in mainstream fashion, the trend has maintained a timeless reputation enjoyed by icons such as Greta Gerwig and Andre 3000.
The quintessential Americana mode traces its origins from elite, private, college-preparatory schools in the Northeast. Preppies (students and alumni who attended these exclusive schools) dawned uniforms of crewneck sweaters, striped ties, oxford shirts, and tasseled loafers on campuses. The ensembles radiated confident sophistication-- a byproduct of austere East coast affluence. As prep school graduates matriculated to Ivy League colleges, preppy fashion endured and evolved into Ivy League style.
In the mid-20th century, major retailers such as J. Press and Brooks Brothers established themselves on Ivy League campuses, becoming dominant influences for collegiate dress. Because many of these schools were located in New England, the pieces reflected attire worn in traditional English recreational habits such as: polo, sailing, hunting, horseback riding, and tennis. These outdoor activities influenced patterns that became emblematic of prep culture. Stripes, equestrian clothing, field jackets, and nautical accessories became available through L.L. Bean, Eddie Bauer, and Orvis.
The 1980s became a pivotal decade for preppy style as Lisa Birnbach’s The Official Preppy Handbook catalyzed a revolution in prep subculture. Although the exposé was written on the basis of satire, the tongue-in-cheek manifesto was consumed by the public as a strict how-to-guide. No longer deterred or reduced by the socioeconomic rules of elitism, the American public found itself in the midst of a preppy revival. The fashion was extending past university campuses and onto mass-markets. The trend found J. Crew and complimented the sales of Ralph Lauren and Tommy Hilfiger. These designers capitalized on the latest fashion craze by emphasizing luxurious nonchalance and pushing the boundaries of prestige and conservatism. With less emphatic stress on familial background and behavior, they challenged the stereotype that old money did not have to serve a precondition to achievement while underscoring high quality classics.
Inspired by tradition and elegant ease, preppy style has regained its footing in high fashion for the Spring 2021 season. The latest Paris Fashion Week looks showcased classic, clean silhouettes. With heavy emphasis on the concept of “essence,” the remote fashion week presentations were abundant in simplicity and neutral motifs. Off-White presented tailored suits with contoured jackets and trousers; Saint Laurent featured menswear-inspired two-piece suits; Celine modeled tweed blazers and oversized varsity track jackets. Amongst the luxury retailers, there seems to be thematic elements in casual denim pants, fitted trench coats, blazer-trouser sets, cinched waists, and knit dresses.
Though the origins of prep are founded in socioeconomic exclusivity, the modern take has established a more inclusive network committed to a timeless tailored look It is no longer a lifestyle reserved for the wealthy, but rather a space for anybody with a keen eye for classic style can cultivate and attain. In essence, prep is the incorporation of the American spirit; it is the modus vivendi of individuality, confidence, and leisure.